As a child, I often wrinkled my nose at the humble cans of anchovies and salmon that my grandparents diligently stocked in their pantry, wondering why they would choose a cold chunk instead of a freshly baked fillet. But in recent years, tinned fish has undergone a facelift. The pungent anchovies people have avoided like the plague are now a coveted consumable.
While tinned fish has been around for ages, its popularity is a relatively recent phenomenon. Brands such as Fishwife, launched in 2020, have turned conservas into a status symbol, collaborating with chains such as Sweetgreen and celebrities such as gen-Z musician Audrey Hobert. More unique offerings such as oysters and mackerel have entered the mainstream too.
“There are all these cool brands now that are so easy to find in grocery stores. I think that has urged people to be more curious and give it a try,” says Anna Hezel, the author of Tin to Table, a cookbook featuring more than 50 ways to eat tinned fish.
Often part of a well-composed snack plate shown off on Instagram, it’s easy to think of tinned fish as just a trendy snack food. But nestled within hearty pasta or between two pillows of bread, that can of salmon, tuna, anchovies or mussels makes a basic meal taste brand new – especially if it already comes seasoned with spices and swimming in olive oil, as so many do.
As a pescatarian, I couldn’t help but wonder if I’d overlooked this convenient protein source because it wasn’t presented to me in a brightly colored tin. So I spent months adding sardines, salmon, mussels and more into my lunches and dinners at home, in the office and even on a plane – testing seven brands including Fishwife and Wild Planet and 15 different products across them. I drew inspiration from Hezel’s cookbook, from which I tried my hand at making my own anchovy salad dressing. I ranked each tin’s flavor, texture and fishiness (which isn’t necessarily a bad thing, if you ask me).
After returning to my regular programming of roasted salmon and boring tofu stir-fries, I found myself craving the endless possibilities offered in a simple can of fish. I’m still daydreaming about Wildfish Cannery’s creatively flavored Pacific cod, which transformed one of the most milquetoast types of fish (in my opinion) into an adventurous culinary affair.
(And if none of these tins catch your eye, there are other fish in the sea.)
The best tinned fish in the US (according to me)
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Best tuna: Fishwife Albacore Tuna Variety Pack
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Best salmon: Wildfish Cannery Smoked King Salmon (An alternative to the sockeye, which is out of stock)
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Best sardines: Wild Planet Wild Sardines in Extra Virgin Olive Oil
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Best cod: Wildfish Cannery Pacific Cod Peperonata
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Best trout: Minnow Trout
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Best wildcard: Siesta Pickled Mussels in Oil
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Most convenient: Cole’s Smoked Salmon and Quinoa (Ready to Eat Meal)
Best tinned salmon
Fancy plane food
Cole’s Smoked Salmon and Quinoa (Ready to Eat Meal)
As a pescatarian, the complimentary in-flight meal is usually a disappointment. So I toss this intriguing can of quinoa and salmon into my backpack as I prepare for a 13-hour flight to Japan. Despite its rather plain packaging, this humble meal saves me from hunger after I realize I hadn’t requested a meat-free meal in advance.
The quinoa isn’t mushy and the salmon has a nice smoky flavor. My one gripe with this tin is its small size. Sure, you could add hummus or avocado, but it would be nice if they offered larger tins for hungry people like me. And though I don’t find it too fishy for the plane, my seatmates may beg to differ.
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Fishiness: 3/10
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Flavor: 8/10
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Texture: 10/10
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Other ingredients used: N/A (unless you count the protein bar I ate right after)
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Sustainability claims: Aquaculture Stewardship Council (ASC) certified
A not boring salad
Wildfish Cannery Smoked Sockeye Salmon
An alternative: Wildfish Cannery Smoked King Salmon
On my trip to Japan, I ate raw fish and little else daily for two weeks (which, yes, was perhaps a questionable health decision). Naturally, after such a journey, I’m reluctant to get back to my tinned fish taste test project.
Yet once I open up this tin, I can’t remember why. It has a strong salty flavor, a hint of smokiness and a pleasant chewy texture that almost replaces the occasional craving for chicken that hits me every few months. I pair this salmon with crunchy lettuce, canned corn, black beans and tomatoes.
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Fishiness: 2/10
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Flavor: 7/10
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Texture: 10/10
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Meal pairing: 10/10
A Mediterranean salad
Wildfish Cannery Habanero Smoked Salmon
I bet I have the fanciest lunch at the office today. This salmon’s smoky flavor transforms my basic salad into a decadent meal, which almost makes up for the fact that I eat this under my office’s frigid air conditioning.
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Fishiness: 5/10
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Flavor: 6/10
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Texture: 7/10
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How well it paired with the meal: 9/10
A sriracha salmon bowl
It’s sweltering in New York City, and I refuse to use my oven.
This salmon saves me from spending money ordering in and requires zero prep. To complete this quick dinner, I add broccoli and topp it with soy sauce, furikake seasoning and sriracha. At 6oz, I can probably squeeze two meals out of this tin and save half for lunch the next day.
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Fishiness: 4/10
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Flavor: 6/10
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Texture: 7/10
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Meal pairing: 8/10
Deconstructed sushi
When I take my salmon bowl out of my office’s fridge, which I packed in haste the night before, I feel like it’s missing something. So I walk over to our snack pantry and find these seaweed snacks, which add a lovely crunch to this dish.
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Meal pairing: 8/10
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Notable ingredients: Gimme Seaweed
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Sustainability claims: Wild-caught
Best tinned tuna
A Japanese convenience store classic
One thing that I dearly miss from Japan: onigiri, my new favorite way to eat rice and fish.
Lucky for me, onigiri is pretty easy to make at home once you have the right tools. I use a mold to shape my own, adding rice, soy sauce and the star of the show – Fishwife’s tuna. It’s already seasoned with a ginger soy sauce, which means I don’t have to add dozens of spices to achieve a delicious final product. Instead, I simply wrap it in nori and enjoy my attempt at recreating my latest fixation.
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Fishiness: 6/10
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Flavor: 7/10
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Texture: 9/10
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Meal pairing: 7/10
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Sustainability claims: Wild-caught
A yuzu tuna sandwich
Don’t be fooled. The sandwich I’m making is not the sad tuna mush that you’re embarrassed to unwrap in your lunchroom.
I let the tin’s yuzu flavor shine through, only adding a slice of sharp cheddar between two toasted pieces of whole-grain bread. (Admittedly, I would usually throw in lettuce, but I’m avoiding it due to the Cyclospora outbreak.) If I make this again, I might add tomatoes and Kewpie mayo, as this comes out a tad dry.
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Fishiness: 3/10
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Flavor: 5/10
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Texture: 9/10
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Meal pairing: 9/10
Another elevated tuna sando
I do make the sandwich again. Siesta’s white tuna belly makes me the lunch of my dreams – a grownup version of a tuna sandwich with leafy greens and mustard. This one is packed in olive oil, so even after draining, the tuna isn’t too dry and doesn’t taste as fishy as other brands I’ve tried.
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Fishiness: 7/10
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Flavor: 5/10
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Texture: 10/10
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Meal pairing: 10/10
Best tinned trout
A snappy snack plate
“I hope this isn’t actually meat,” I think as I take my first bite of Minnow’s smoked trout. This has an unexpected fatty richness that I can only equate to a pescatarian’s bacon. It makes up for my otherwise bland snack plate, composed of apples, almonds, cucumbers and baby carrots, with the only other standout on the plate being my new favorite cottage cheese.
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Fishiness: 3/10
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Flavor: 10/10
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Texture: 10/10
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Meal pairing: 10/10
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Notable ingredients: Friendship cottage cheese
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Sustainability claims: ASC certified
A whimsical snack plate
Fishwife Smoked Trout with Chimichurri
Today is finally my day to join the ranks of women on TikTok that I watch eating luxurious snack plates of tinned fish. This trout blows me away with its addition of grilled red pepper and herbs. I’m impressed with its lack of fishiness and how much flavor is packed into this small tin.
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Fishiness: 1/10
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Flavor: 10/10
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Texture: 10/10
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Meal pairing: 10/10
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Sustainability claims: ASC certified
Best tinned cod
A lazy take on pasta
Wildfish Cannery Pacific Cod Peperonata
I am craving gnocchi, but I want a balanced meal. Wildfish’s Pacific Cod, which has a fun mix of roasted red peppers, spices and anchovies, does the trick. I air-fry my gnocchi before adding in this tin, along with some broccoli in the name of health. The fish’s punchiness is the star of the show, and the gnocchi and broccoli are quiet enough to let that flavor shine.
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Fishiness: 1/10
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Flavor: 7/10
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Texture: 9/10
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Meal pairing: 10/10
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Sustainability claims: Wild-caught (cod only)
A simple seafood pasta
David Wild Caught Atlantic Cod
I feel a stab of guilt eating this fancy meal while watching my roommate eat a bowl of rice and beans.
I’ve made a simple bowl of pasta with broccoli and grated parmesan, topped with cod from David, best known for its protein bars. I have low expectations, but its cod is surprisingly delicious. The flaky texture and mild flavor are the perfect addition to add to my pasta. As it’s one of the few tins I try without oil, I saute it in a nonstick pan for more flavor. This dinner is easy to make, and far more elevated than my tried-and-true boxed mac and cheese.
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Fishiness: 1/10
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Flavor: 7/10
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Texture: 9/10
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Meal pairing: 10/10
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Sustainability claims: Wild-caught
Best tinned sardines
A simple rice bowl
My last experience trying sardines was not pleasant, to say the least. I was shocked by the saltiness, and icked out by the tiny fish bones. So I wasn’t looking forward to testing these, fearing the fishy flavor and slimy texture from sardines past. But Siesta’s little fishes prove me wrong.
I use its sardines in olive oil as the centerpiece for an easy rice and avocado bowl. My meal prep time is practically nonexistent, as I simply transport them from the can on to a bed of leftover brown rice. While this isn’t the most exciting meal, it gets the job done in a pinch.
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Fishiness: 6/10
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Flavor: 5/10
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Texture: 8/10
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Meal pairing: 8/10
Sardines and rice
Instead of my usual tofu stir-fry, I mix up my usual protein source with sardines. I add them right to my bowl because I’m too hungry to pan-fry them. I appreciate that it already has extra virgin olive oil for a touch of richness, saving this meal from complete blandness.
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Fishiness: 8/10
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Flavor: 6.5/10
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Texture: 8/10
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Meal pairing: 9/10
Other tinned seafood
A dressed-up salad
Tin to Table inspires me to try my hand at an anchovy salad dressing. I use Siesta’s, blending apple cider vinegar, honey and Graza olive oil together. While my attempt is a tad more liquid-y than I would’ve liked, the anchovies give it a savory flavor that adds a fun twist to my standard basic balsamic iterations.
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Fishiness: 8/10
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Flavor: 6.5/10
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Texture: 8/10
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Meal pairing: 9/10
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Notable ingredients: Graza olive oil
Quiet luxury in pasta form
I use my family’s tomato sauce recipe to recreate one of my favorite meals to order out – pasta con le cozze. While I don’t have linguine noodles, the shells I have on hand pair well with Siesta’s mussels. The pickled flavor adds brightness that contrasts with the richer elements on my plate. And while this meal takes just 20 minutes to throw together, the mussels make it feel far fancier than it is.
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Fishiness: 1/10
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Flavor: 7/10
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Texture: 9/10
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Meal pairing: 10/10
Other pieces you might enjoy from the Filter, the Guardian’s guide to buying fewer, better things:
