The Chanel watchmaking creation is officially making a comeback in 2026.
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Ceramic isn’t the material that typically comes to mind when you think of a watch.
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While stainless steel and precious metal are more common materials, the hard, heat-resistant material has become a pillar of watchmaking thanks to its lightness, durability and hypoallergenic properties.
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It also happens to look really nice.
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“It has a very distinct, elevated finish that feels modern,” says KimEli Krake, founder of the Vancouver-based jewelry resale business Louise Row Studio. “It is one of the few materials that delivers both function and a strong esthetic point of view.”
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A durable material created by mixing fine powders with a binder and subjecting the mixture to extremely high temperatures in a kiln, ceramic was first introduced into the watch world in the 1960s. But it wouldn’t become fully embraced by collectors and connoisseurs for another 40 years or so.
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“Its appeal has grown steadily over time,” says Krake. And that’s very much thanks to the Chanel J12 watch.
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First introduced in 2000, the chronometer-certified timepiece was inspired by racing yachts. But what it really stood out for was its material. Fashioned with a ceramic case and fully ceramic bracket, which includes some 22 individually moulded pieces, the J12 is crafted using a special powder sourced in Japan.
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While the French fashion house has been celebrated for its unconventional watch designs throughout the years, beginning with the Premiere in 1987, it has been this unisex sports watch that has really put the brand on the watchmaking map.
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“The J12 is instantly recognizable, with a sporty unisex feel and a modern design esthetic,” says Krake. “Chanel combined classic design codes such as a round face, larger bezel and a more substantial bracelet, while refining these elements with a high-polish finish and thoughtful detailing.
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“The result is a watch that feels both contemporary and rooted in a sense of understated luxury.”
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At the Watches & Wonders convention in Geneva this spring — an overwhelmingly large industry trade show that sees the world’s luxury timepiece brands showcase their latest innovations to the media, sellers and collectors — Chanel further celebrated the J12 design, and its revolutionary material.
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Situated at the heart of the Chanel booth, surrounded by the unique timepieces created specifically with its avid collectors in mind, the company revealed a playful (and playable) game board that pushed the boundaries of ceramic.
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In support of the larger Coco Game theme, the luxury house created a spectacular chess set, made entirely of ceramic, precious metals and gemstones. Chanel founder Gabrielle Chanel was featured as the central figure — the Queen — in the one-of-one game set, which reportedly sold immediately to a private collector despite its seven-figure price tag.
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A watchmaking expert for the brand explained the time-consuming steps required to create the functional game board, as well as the unique diamond-setting innovation employed inspired by the textile tweed. It took more than 9,000 hours to create the chess set, he shared.
