Dr. Geeta Yadav answers common questions about the trending skincare ingredient retinol.
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Retinol is one of the top trending skincare topics.
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But with social media feeds and #SkinToK serving up a seemingly endless scroll of skincare advice and product recommendations, we thought we’d contact an expert to answer all of our retinol questions.
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We asked Dr. Geeta Yadav, a Toronto-based board-certified dermatologist and founder of FACET Dermatology, to sound off on some of our top queries — and address the most common misconceptions. Here’s everything you need to know about retinol.
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What is retinol?
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West Coast Table
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A: Retinol is a vitamin-A derivative. It is eventually converted into the bioactive form of Vitamin-A, retinoic acid (tretinoin), through a metabolic pathway in the skin.
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Who is it suitable for?
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A: It’s suitable for people who want to address photoaging, fine lines, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, skin roughness and uneven skin texture. The efficacy and tolerability of retinol make it the easier choice for patients who cannot tolerate the more potent prescription formats, which mimic the bioactive form more closely.
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A great option for first-time retinol users is the Elizabeth Arden Retinol + HPR Ceramide Capsules Rapid Skin Renewing Serum, it includes HPR, a next-generation retinoid, which is 10 times more potent than pure retinol. The pre-measured capsules also ensure a precise, encapsulated dose of retinol and HPR, which is gentle on the skin for both experienced and first-time retinol users.
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What are some of the misconceptions around its use?
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Misconception: Retinol is as irritating as prescription retinoids.
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The truth: Typically, retinol is significantly less irritating because it still has to be converted to the active form within the skin, lowering the effective concentration. Tolerability also depends on formulation. Pairing retinol with ceramides and using a stabilized delivery system helps reinforce the skin barrier while the active is doing its work, which is often the difference between a retinol you can stick with and one you abandon.
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Misconception: Over-the-counter (OTC) retinol is ineffective.
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The truth: A well-formulated retinol can deliver benefits comparable to prescription tretinoin with better tolerability, even though retinol itself is about 20 times less potent because it still must be converted in the skin. The bigger issue with OTC retinol is stability. It oxidizes quickly once exposed to air and light, which is part of why some formulas underperform. Single-dose capsule formats solve this by sealing each dose, and there is strong clinical evidence that properly formulated retinol improves fine lines, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, and photoaging.
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Misconception: Retinol increases skin thinning.
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The truth: Retinoids increase epidermal thickness and promote collagen production.
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Misconception: Retinol increases skin cancer risk with sun exposure.
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The truth: Retinoids are chemo-protective and are believed to reduce the risk of skin cancer development.
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Should retinol use be shifted through the seasons? Or can it be used year-round?
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A: Retinol can be used year-round if you are careful about using moisturizer and sunscreen regularly. UV exposure depletes epidermal vitamin-A stores, so topical retinoids might help prevent UV-induced vitamin-A deficiency. If daytime or summer usage is a concern, research your retinol product.
