Advertisement 1
The move to white wines is part of a multi-faceted development that reflects fundamental changes in how, when, and why people drink wine
Reviews and recommendations are unbiased and products are independently selected. Postmedia may earn an affiliate commission from purchases made through links on this page.
Article content
As we slowly inch into warmer weather on the West Coast, there is little doubt that white wine offerings will continue to capture the imagination of winemakers in B.C., as they have across the globe. What looked like a fad in the early 2010s is now part of a structural shift in wine sales that producers and retailers seeking your repeat business can no longer ignore.
Article content
Story continues below
Article content
The move to white wines is part of a multi-faceted development that reflects fundamental changes in how, when, and why people drink wine.
Article content
Article content
West Coast Table
Article content
According to the International Organization of Vine and Wine (OIV), white wine production overtook red globally in 2013, and its share of world production has continued to climb, reaching 49 per cent in recent years, while red has fallen to around 43 per cent. Not surprisingly, consumption has followed the same path. Even so, you may be surprised to learn that in the U.S., U.K., Germany and Canada, white wine volumes now match or exceed red, helped by sparkling wine and a growing number of new releases featuring still white styles.
Article content
Today’s consumers drink wine as an everyday, flexible beverage, and white wine, traditionally served chilled, fits into their daily regimen of cold beverages, including ice tea, iced coffee, mixed drinks, and just about anything with an ice cube. It doesn’t hurt that it can be enjoyed without food or with lighter cuisines, such as Asian and southeast Asian dishes, seafood, vegetable-driven cooking, and plant-forward diets.
Article content
Story continues below
Article content
The rush is on for fresh, crisp, and aromatic wines that are easy to understand by grape or place, such as Sauvignon Blanc or Sancerre. Lower alcohol is a factor, too, and as we eat less meat, the need for red wine also diminishes. Frankly, I’m happy with a 50/50 split, which gives everyone a choice. I might add that red wine is not going away, but it has had a long run. As consumers’ palates continue to be refined at younger ages, the industry has been mostly unresponsive, or worse, has taken advantage of the red wine craze, inundating shelves with a lot of overpriced, ordinary wine.
Article content
Read More
Article content
The good news is that there will be many opportunities for B.C. producers to step up their game and embrace a market demanding change. Our golden card is the ability to grow grapes with abundant acidity, producing wines that are vibrant, lively, electric and palate-cleansing.
Article content
If we look at the roster of B.C. white wines, it paints an encouraging picture of the ingredients, but it will be up to growers and winemakers to up their white-wine game. Reducing the number of off-dry wines in the market would be a good start. Off-dry wines can be fun, but no one is interested in paying $25+ for them. We need to focus on dry, cool-climate whites to stay in the game.
Advertisement 1
Advertisement 2
Advertisement
Article content
Case in point is our No. 1 planted white wine grape, Pinot Gris. The predominant style is closer to a fruit salad than to a dry, snappy, clean, mineral, refreshing white that is a winner at the dinner table. There is huge potential to up our game here.
Article content
Chardonnay is No. 2 in vines in the ground, and for the most part, I would say we are on track, with more and more wines across the province arriving with tension, complexity, and less oak.
Article content
Next up is Riesling, maybe the best white, but the toughest sell in the wine business. After that, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Blanc, Viognier, Sémillon, Chenin Blanc, Grüner Veltliner, and Albariño are all possibilities, although winter hardiness can be an issue with some.
Article content
Anyway you look at it, the white wine reset is here. If we want to stay in the game, we need to exploit the grapes, the vineyard sites, and our cool climate to take on the rest of the wine world, which is determined to protect its market share, too.
Article content
Check out our weekend wine picks for B.C. white wines on track.
Article content
Article content
Weekend wine picks
Article content
Article content
Unsworth Vineyards Charme De L’ile N/V, Cowichan Valley, Vancouver Island
$29.90 I 89/100
Article content
UPC: 626990160977
Article content
Story continues below
Article content
At Unsworth, this effervescent wine, with impressively small bubbles, boasts a blend that has evolved over the years and now leads with Sauvignette, followed by Pinot Gris with a touch of Pinot Noir. The latest version is crisper and leaner, with a lower alcohol level than earlier versions, all of which makes it much more attractive as a food wine. The lees, fresh-cut apple and pear skin notes intoxicate. Ready to drink and mostly dry at eight grams per litre residual. Well done.
Article content
Article content
Quails’ Gate Chenin Blanc 2025, West Kelowna, Okanagan Valley
$26.99 I 90/100
Article content
UPC: 778856121032
Article content
The 2025 is an upgrade in vibrancy, freshness and precision, shedding just the right amount of weight to move away from the somewhat round and cloying style that can be Chenin Blanc from time to time, especially in warmer years. Look for a green-apple, pear-skin, lemon-zest nose with a dusting of green herbs and some chalky minerality. Overall, the style is fresh and brisk, with lively acidity and a gentle savoury streak throughout. Food-friendly and a perfect foil for the upcoming local spot prawn season. Impressive.
Article content
Story continues below
Article content
Article content
Hillside Un-Oaked Sauvignon Blanc 2025, Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley
$27 I 89/100
Article content
UPC: 696852229371
Article content
This unoaked Sauvignon Blanc is grown on the Naramata Bench over glacial till with sandy, gravelly soils. As its name suggests, there is no oak involved, and its fresh, crisp character begins with a short period on skins and stainless-steel fermentation. The nose is highly reminiscent of the grassy, green-fruit Kiwi style. Bold passion fruit and citrus flow through the mid-palate, and the finish is pure and clean. All the classic pairings will work here, from oysters and shellfish to various goat cheeses, asparagus, and vibrant, light spring dishes. Ready to drink.
Article content
Article content
Fort Berens Reserve Riesling 2023, Lillooet
$29.99 I 91/100
Article content
UPC: 626990248958
Article content
The Reserve Riesling is more tightly structured, with bright acidity that highlights its tropical notes, while quince adds a bitter edge to the blend, enhancing a mineral undertone. It is a complex wine that the Germans might call gastronomic for its high acidity. The texture is slightly creamy, which helps balance the overall profile. It is estate-grown, with fruit from Dry Creek Vineyard, planted in 2009, and Red Rock Vineyard, planted in 2019. The ideal pairing would be a sesame-ginger stir-fry or pork with garlic and lemon.
Story continues below
Article content
Article content
Liber Pinot Blanc 2025, Cawston, Similkameen Valley, B.C.
$28 I 89/100
Article content
UPC: 611138444842
Article content
The Gismondi on Wine team reports a restrained style showing pure fruit. Look for notes of lemon and green apple, with a subtle beeswax note. Moderate in concentration, it carries a touch of bitterness, balanced by crisp acidity, and remains fresh and varietally correct. A reliable, approachable white wine that demonstrates the possibilities of Pinot Blanc.
Article content
Article content
Calendar items
Article content
• One of the stars of the Similkameen Valley, Clos du Soleil winery, is planning several events to celebrate its 20th anniversary this year. In Vancouver, you are invited to join them for dinner at 6 p.m. on May 20, at Bacchus Restaurant at the Wedgewood Hotel (845 Hornby St.). Winemaker and partner Michael Clark will headline the multi-course, wine-paired meal, which includes a vertical tasting of four vintages of Clos du Soleil’s flagship red wine, Signature, dating back to 2010, along with a selection of other Clos du Soleil wines. Tickets are $172.50 per person, including all taxes and gratuity, and are available online at closdusoleil.ca/store-shop/.
Article content
Story continues below
Article content
• The Chefs’ Table Society of B.C., in partnership with the Pacific Prawn Fishermen’s Association, welcomes back the Spot Prawn Festival on May 31 at Vancouver’s Fishermen’s Wharf in False Creek. There are three ways to enjoy the 20th year. There is free access to the docks, with cooking demos and an educational marketplace. For $12, you get a family-friendly 8 oz of Prawn & Seafood Chowder on a Bun. You can choose an hour between 11 a.m. and 3 p.m. to pick up your chowder. For $85, you can enjoy a Spot Prawn Brunch from 11 a.m.-1 p.m. or 1:30-3 p.m., grazing standup style with a tasting menu of six delicious spot prawn dishes (19 years and over only, no pets). The outdoor, standup event runs rain or shine. This is the Chefs’ Table Society’s main fundraiser, providing education, mentorship, scholarships, and sustainability initiatives provincewide. For tickets and more information, go to: chefstablesociety.com.
Article content
Article content
B.C. wine of the week
Article content
Article content
SpearHead Pinot Gris 2025, Summerland Bench, Okanagan Valley
$24 I 90/100
Article content
UPC: 696852062886
Article content
Fermented predominantly in stainless steel (90 per cent), with a touch (10 per cent) in a neutral French puncheon, this Pinot Gris shows a slightly reductive character with a subtle flinty edge. Yet the nose remains pure and fresh, with bright lemon. The palate is bright and steely, with crisp acidity and lovely precision.
Article content
Story continues below
Article content
Article content
Value wine of the week
Article content
Article content
Amalaya Torrontes Riesling Torrontés 2024, Calchaquí Valley, Salta, Argentina
Article content
$19.99 I 89/100
Article content
UPC: 7798104769093
Article content
Amalaya is a magical place perched 1,800-plus metres above sea level in Cafayate, Argentina. It is famous for its stony, mineral Malbec, but when it’s hot, its blend of 85 per cent Torrontés and 15 per cent Riesling is equally sought after. This aromatic white opens with Torrontés notes of orange blossom, jasmine, lemon balm and green apple, before the Riesling adds structure, minerality and bright acidity to dry out the finish. Now under $20, it offers real value and is a perfect wine for warm summer nights and West Coast seafood.
Article content
