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Next up for B.C. is to continue highlighting our villages of production.
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A week in France is always good for the wine soul, even as the powerhouse player in the wine business navigates the many winds of change. The French wine sector is contracting, but it’s not as dire as it sounds. Consumption has been falling for decades. In 1975, the French were drinking 100-plus litres of wine per person per year; by 2023, that had dropped to 45 litres. It is still high by world standards, but is retracting toward more moderate overall European consumption levels.
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The picture at retail is similar. In August 2025, Wine Intelligence reported that “sales of wine in French large-scale retail dropped 7 per cent compared to 2023, yet France remains one of the largest wine-consuming nations in the world, drinking an average of 2.1 million bottles per day of still wine.”
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West Coast Table
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Walking the streets of Paris, Orange, and Narbonne this month and visiting brasseries and cafés along the way, what is striking is the richness of French producers encountered on the wine list, even if, by North American standards, individual selections are sparse and the appellations involved are even more limited. Not surprisingly, there is an almost slavish attention to a handful of famous French appellations that have established an elevated level of quality and consistency over decades.
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In Paris, places like Sancerre, Chablis, Alsace, Burgundy, Bordeaux, and Beaujolais dominate lists, but most selections are from lesser-known producers, priced in the 30 to 65 Euro range, with Champagne selling at the top end. Terroir and place matter, and selections are clearly about where the wine hails from rather than the grape or even the producer. There is no shortage of high-end, super-expensive wines. Just look for the white tablecloth establishments and the well-dressed patrons, and you will find the finest France has to offer.
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In the villages of the Rhone Valley or across the Languedoc, the wine lists are almost exclusively local, leaving most outsiders to turn to their phones for a bit of information before pairing their bottle with lunch or dinner. The good news is that wine service is about as unpretentious as it gets. In fact, most of the time, I poured my own wine after the initial opening.
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One clear trend is that white wines are far more prominent on lists across the country, as are organic, biodynamic and sustainable offerings. Some say climate change and consumer demand are driving the white wine bus. I’m not sure how measurable these things are, but they are noticeable to the informed drinker.
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How does all this translate to the B.C. experience? Well, if French wine can become more drinkable, more honest, and more self-aware, we need to be humble enough to pursue a similar goal if we want to stay anywhere near relevant.
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We are on the path to attracting new wine consumers and consolidating our story, but we are far from the finish line. Next up for B.C. is to continue highlighting our villages of production. By connecting the home of the vines to the wines in the bottle, we build touchstones that help consumers become more informed and better connected to local wines.
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After that, areas such as Okanagan Falls, the Cowichan Valley, the Similkameen Valley, Lake Country, Naramata, Summerland, East and West Kelowna, Oliver, Osoyoos, and more will take centre stage, and food, wine, and tourism will coalesce into a single cultural experience that transcends time and generations.
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If you are ready to participate, pull up your chair and make sure it faces the street, French style, so you can start observing life rather than retreating from it.
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Weekend wine picks
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Mouton Cadet Blanc Sémillon – Sauvignon Blanc – Muscadelle 2024, Bordeaux, France
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$18.99 I 88/100
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UPC: 878448002616
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This label has been completely revamped over the last five years, leaving me impressed by the current ratio of price and quality. Very few wines deliver the concentration and flavours you get here for the price. The blend is just over 66 per cent Sauvignon Blanc for freshness, just under 32 per cent Sémillon for roundness and fruit, and 2 per cent Muscadelle for lift and refinement. The nose is a refreshing, attractive green/citrus mix with apricot highlights. The acidity is perfect, and the finish is a lovely saline-mineral affair. The ideal aperitif for vegetable maki rolls, oysters, or take it to dinner. Super value.
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Sartarelli Classico Verdicchio 2022, Marche, Italy
$23.99 I 89/100
UPC: 8032919700018
This Verdicchio is an uncomplicated white that opens with classic grassy-green fruit and hawthorn, with citrus and almond notes at the finish. This is a delightful Marche white that was made for West Coast seafood. Fresh and youthful, it is a solid pasta wine, and clams or mussels are the best shellfish to combine with spaghetti and verdicchio. Stock up, as this one is a winner. Fine value, too.
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Chartron et Trébuchet Cremant de Bourgogne Chardonnay Brut 2023, Burgundy, France
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$29.99 I 90/100
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UPC: 3120581442970
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This is a traditional method 100 per cent Chardonnay sparkler offering fine value. The nose is an enticing mix of white flowers, citrus, and green-apple notes, with hints of almonds. On the palate, lemon and apple notes are joined by a strong current of chalky, wet-stone minerality and a creamy, persistent mousse. It offers a lot of sparkling wine for the price and would be a terrific patio aperitif or Sunday brunch bubble.
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Barossa Valley Estate Grenache Shiraz Mourvèdre 2023, Barossa Valley, South Australia
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$24.99 I 90/100
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UPC: 9311347003120
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Barossa Valley is home to this GSM blend of Grenache, Shiraz, and Mourvèdre, with Grenache being the dominant varietal. It has been a decade since we last enjoyed this wine, and we’re pleased to say it has evolved into a bright, fruit-forward red with lively red-berry and dark-plum notes, ending with a spicy finish. Think of it as a medium-bodied, soft, juicy wine meant to be enjoyed now, offering great value for everyday drinking. It’s ideal for pairing with savoury dishes around the barbecue or alongside your favourite vegetarian meal. Best enjoyed young, within three to five years of the vintage.
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Famille J-M Cazes Pauillac 2020, Pauillac, Haut-Médoc, Bordeaux, France
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$60 I 90/100
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UPC: 3760020135973
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The J-M Cazes Pauillac is the third-tier label of the renowned Pauillac powerhouse Château Lynch-Bages, designed for earlier drinking. The Cazes family has owned Lynch-Bages for decades, making it well-versed in all things Bordeaux and Pauillac. It is a 74/23/3 Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc blend with spicy dark cherry, plum, and blackberry. The palate is tinged with graphite and structured with rich, slightly sticky tannins at this point. It is dry and sophisticated, but that is to be expected for the price. A solid introduction to the style of the famous AOC Pauillac, from a highly regarded vintage. Private wine shops only.
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B.C. wine of the week
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Hester Creek Character White 2025, Okanagan Valley
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$19.99 I 88/100
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UPC: 626990112211
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Character White has evolved into a Gewürztraminer-dominant wine, with a smaller portion of Pinot Gris. Look for classic rosewater aromas with litchi, fresh ginger, and ripe melon, without any cloying notes. The palate is off-dry, with watery notes of lychee, fresh honey, and a dusting of desert brush. Think lunchtime dishes like quiche or a spicy tuna roll. Serve well chilled on a warm patio. By all accounts, 2025 was the perfect growing season at Hester Creek, and it’s destined to be one of the best vintages ever in the Okanagan Valley.
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Value wine of the week
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Earthling Sauvignon Blanc 2025, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand
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$17.99 I 88/100
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UPC: 9419453000665
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Consistency defines this label and its producer, Rossendale Winery. Expect a classic, bold, blousy Kiwi Sauvignon Blanc that opens with lime, citrus, gooseberries, and passion fruit, and carries those flavours throughout. Reliable and ready to enjoy, Earthling has a story most wines lack, and it is upfront about it. Interestingly, the front label background varies by bottle, and you’ll find a new Earthling’on the back label, offering a unique toast to a relatable human truth. The Earthling uses lightweight bottles (417g), minimizes the use of farming equipment and plants hundreds of trees to offset its carbon footprint to be a responsible steward of the land.
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Calendar items
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Top Drop Vancouver 2026 is back. The annual celebration of terroir-influenced, handcrafted wines showcases extraordinary offerings from over 70 local and international wineries on May 11-12 and features four main public events. There are three Monday Night parties’before it all culminates at the grand tasting on Tuesday. The Monday night lineup includes: Wine Party at Euro Plaza with 30-plus Top Drop European participants at Yaletown’s outdoor Helmcken Plaza from 5:30-7:30 p.m. Up the block, Hemispheres will highlight wines from the Southern Hemisphere and Japan, featuring a diverse selection from 16 producers, including wines and sake that are reshaping modern wine culture, from 7:30-9:30 p.m. at Heist in Yaletown; and finally, Home Turf showcases 16 local producers and a selection of wine-friendly snacks from 7:30-9:30 p.m. at Earl’s Loft in Yaletown. The Top Drop main event runs Tuesday, May 12, from 7-9:30 p.m. at the Roundhouse Community Arts and Recreation Centre, featuring over 70 wineries from around the world. For more info and tickets, log onto Top Drop Canada/Wine Tasting Event.
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This Mother’s Day marks a meaningful milestone at O’Rourke Family Estate. For the first time, the winery will open its spectacular Granite Café and the Packinghouse Pergola Patio venue for yet another dining experience. Panoramic views of the vineyard and Okanagan Lake frame every table, and the Packinghouse Pergola Patio offers an open-air setting that captures the full beauty of the estate’s south-facing aspect. Reservations are limited from 10 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. Book online at Granite Café | O’Rourke Family Estate Winery.
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