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When it comes to the craft of making food and wine, chef Andrea Carlson and winemaker Mark Haisma are exceptional artisans
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Burdock & Co., a Michelin one-star restaurant, is part of Vancouver’s lively Main Street scene and is operated by the modest but highly talented chef Andrea Carlson. Carlson and wine director Maisie Ryan, along with a skilled service team, hosted Australian winemaker Mark Haisma of Mark Haisma Wines for a true winemaker’s dinner late last month.
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Australian-born winemaker Mark Haisma is among the few to transition from the New World to the Old World to produce wine at high elevations. His early career started at Yarra Yering, a well-known Victorian winery in the Yarra Valley. After a decade of apprenticing in grape growing and winemaking, Haisma left Australia to establish a négociant business in Burgundy’s Mâcon-Mancey, a sub-region within the broader Mâcon appellation located at the northern edge of the Mâconnais, just south of the Côte Chalonnaise.
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Haisma’s modest allocation of wines to B.C. has been in place for more than a decade, but this was his first visit to Vancouver. Gregarious and outspoken, Haisma’s personality is the complete opposite of Carlson’s, at least when it comes to public speaking. However, when it comes to the craft of making food and wine, both are exceptional artisans. Food critics often describe Carlson’s dishes as restrained, emphasizing precision, calm, balance and thoughtfulness. Interestingly, the same qualities are evident in Haisma’s wines.
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West Coast Table
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We tasted six different wines intermittently sold at select higher-end private wine shops, aligning with Haisma’s philosophy of offering a limited selection to a market that desires his wines and doesn’t require him to micromanage sales. I’m guessing he spends most of his time trying to settle into the Burgundian countryside, where the residents are suspicious of anyone not born in a local village.
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Behind his Australian bravado, Haisma is an engaging, observant human. He initially started as a négociant, buying and making wine, and, as he said, taking the time to know the names of all his growers, their partners, kids and grandkids. Eschewing the wealthy négociant label, he has used his Down Under frankness and warmth to penetrate the fortress. A decade later, he was given the opportunity to acquire two hallowed hectares in Gevrey-Chambertin and, most recently, two hectares in Nuits-Saint-Georges and Côte de Nuits-Villages, adding “domaine producer” to the resumé.
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Back at Burdock & Co., the unlikely duo pulled off an extraordinary four-hour evening of wine and food in a comfortable, unfettered atmosphere that felt like two. In the end, it was a match made in heaven as they joined forces to present an evening of West Coast food and French wines with uncommon ease.
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I’m not a food critic, but after thousands of meals in restaurants across the world, it’s clear Burdock & Co. has that special something, including a charming, intimate atmosphere. I’ll leave the restaurant reviews to Michelin and stay in my lane, even though they have decided to expand into wine, with a new plan to rate wine estates and award a global recognition accolade they are calling Michelin Grapes.
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We try not to recommend wines that are hard to find, but Haisma labels are worth seeking out at private stores. Two terrific whites suited to our West Coast cuisine are the Mark Haisma 2023 Bourgogne Aligoté and the amazing Mark Haisma 2022 Saint-Romain-Le-Jaron.
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And while you are at it, book a table and enjoy a rare experience in the capable hands of Burdock & Co. at Main and 11th Avenue in Vancouver.
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Weekend wine picks
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Gabriel Meffre Côtes-du-Rhône Blanc Cuvée Saint-Vincent 2023, Rhône Valley, France
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$18.99 I 89/100
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UPC: 3142920026306
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The 2023 St. Vincent still jumps from the glass. The blend is a fun mix of Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Roussanne, Marsanne and Viognier. Look for bright floral blossoms and a dash of lees. The palate is finely tuned, with spice and a balancing minerally bitterness to offset the light pear, citrus and green fig flavours. Dry, elegant and ready for spring and summer duty. Take your pick and pair with scallops, halibut, and sushi. They all work here.
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Penfolds Bin 311 Chardonnay 2022, South Australia, Australia
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$49.99 I 93/100
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UPC: 012354071919
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At three years old, this modern Next World Australian Chardonnay is beginning to emerge from Yattarna’s shadow and establish its own identity. Bright and vibrant, it may be a touch less electric than its parent wine, Yattarna, but it feels like so much more. Expect an enticing, subtle ripeness, with lightly toasted cashews, a hint of struck match, and plenty of lemon and pomelo flavours that cut through the creamy, long, sleek texture. Honestly, this is a top-tier, highly polished Chardonnay, and a bargain at $50. Citrus-cured hamachi makes a brilliant pairing. Ready to drink.
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Zuccardi Serie A Malbec 2023, Valle de Uco, Tunuyán, Central Region, Mendoza, Argentina
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$24.99 I 91/100
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UPC: 7791728021301
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When you taste a Zuccardi Malbec, it is easy to wonder what, with a few exceptions, the rest of the country is doing. The grapes, grown in the Uco Valley at an altitude of 1100 metres, are fermented wild in a mix of concrete and oak, and aged for just eight months. The result is a juicy, rich, elegant wine with a transparency that sucks you into the glass. The bright acidity and round, mouth-filling, black savoury fruit are perfectly balanced. The layering of flavours, flecked with the nuances of spice and florals, enriches the final taste. It’s a polished, value-laden wine made for backyard barbecues and beef, backup the truck.
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Stoneboat Vineyards Reserve Series Pinot Noir 2023, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
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$32.90 I 88/100
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UPC: 626990241546
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The Stoneboat style is hard to pin down from year to year. It is generally a mid-weight Pinot that expresses itself through a just-ripe red fruit style and an earthy underbrush character. The palate is similar, with spicy notes throughout, streaked with a savoury cherry, black tea finish. The tannins are light, leaving this wine ready to drink. A mushroom pizza or grilled chicken would all pair well here.
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Château Montus Tannat — Cabernet Sauvignon 2019, Madiran, Sud-Ouest, France
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$34.99 I 91/100
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UPC: 3372220160015
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Montus has always been a rich wine, full of earthy, savoury notes, that delivers a powerful 80/20 blend of Tannat and Cabernet Sauvignon from Madiran. In 2019, the dark berry fruit layered with forest floor and leathery notes, with spicy soy notes, is remarkably elegant — something Madiran wines are seldom known for. Compared to 2017, this wine is refreshingly clean on the nose without sacrificing any complexity. Barbecued ribs would be a fine match for a wine that can easily stand up to the richest menu items. Impressive.
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Calendar items
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• The 2026 Naramata Bench Spring Release event is set for May 7 at the Vancouver Community College Downtown Campus Atrium, located at 250 West Pender St. The walkabout tasting provides the first chance to sample the latest vintages from more than 20 Naramata Bench producers. Attendees will be among the first to enjoy the newest Bench wines, including freshly bottled 2025 whites and rosés. The evening features a limited number of VIP tickets with early access to a “Winemaker Hour,” giving guests the opportunity to explore and taste alongside winemakers and media. VIP entry begins at 5 p.m., while general admission runs from 6-8 p.m. Light canapés and small bites will be served throughout the evening to complement the wines. Tickets can be purchased online at naramatabench.com. VIP tickets are priced at $79; general admission tickets are $59.
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• You are invited to the Vistas & Virtuosity Gala & Concert Dinner at the O’Rourke Family Estate on May 23. Enjoy a chamber concert led by cellist Cameron Crozman, with an acclaimed ensemble, featuring Graham Campbell’s The Compass Suite, a B.C. premiere, Arensky’s Variations on a Theme by Tchaikovsky, and Brahms’ Piano Quartet No. 1. An after-performance cocktail mingle will give guests a chance to meet the evening’s artists and fellow attendees to reflect on the music. Guests then move to the on-site Row 188 restaurant for a multi-course set-menu dinner. Doors open at 4:15 p.m., with the performance beginning at 5 p.m. Dinner seating starts at 7 p.m. and follows at 10-minute intervals. Tickets are $250, including welcome wine. Reserve via Tock at O’Rourke Family Estate: Vistas & Virtuosity.
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B.C. wine of the week
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Modesta Pinot Noir Rama 2022, Oliver, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
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$34.99 I Score 91/100
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UPC: 696852198530
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Modesta is a small, family-owned estate winery founded in 2019 by Mark Morrison and Tanya Tougas. The initial commercial releases followed years of careful vineyard development and planning. They chose the name Modesta to reflect their values of humility, restraint and respect for their land. We recently discovered the 2021 Rama Vineyard and were once again impressed by the melt-in-your-mouth character of the 2022 Rama Pinot. It has a bit more intensity, weight, spice and alcohol, but the balance remains, and the mouth feel is terrific. Like 2021, it is a pale pour but a thoroughly enjoyable Pinot that highlights nuance and finesse. Its elevated flavour intensity, without overwhelming you with oak or alcohol, is a rare trait in New World Pinot Noir. Expect spicy, cherry, and tea notes in a wine you can enjoy now. Winery direct only.
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Value wine of the week
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Finca Las Moras Reserve Chardonnay 2024, Valle del Tulum, San Juan, Argentina
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$16.99 I 88/100
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UPC: 007791540090042
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We have high expectations for Argentine Cabernet Franc and Chardonnay in the upcoming years. This wine starts fresh and vibrant with citrus and orange notes. The palate mirrors this, offering hints of pineapple, honey and a touch of butter, adding a bit of creaminess to the finish. Clean, enjoyable to drink, and practical at the dinner table, so load up. It is a bargain New World Chardonnay.
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